TT Hongli/Gao Gao HG 1/144 Cherudim "Fighter" GNHW/R Review - Part 1

Note1: TT Hongli is known as Gao Gao or Kao Kao/Cao Cao, depending on how you read the new brand name.

It has been a while since I've did a bootleg review especially since that incident which plagued anyone who made reviews on them. I still hope that anyone who comments will REFRAIN from commenting anything that's "prejudice" and hurtful. It's just unsightly and has caused problems for many people. There are many ways to justify oneself and buying decisions but just be nice okay?

Anyways, enough with the disclaimer, onwards with part 1 of the review.

Price: RM2X

This one is quite new in production and I was very curious as to how much TT Hongli has improved ever since they decided to change their name. It was said that the quality is better now so let's find out.

~About the MS~

During the final battle in season 2 of Gundam 00, all the Gundams were equipped with their final load-outs, GN Heavy Weapons, and Cherudim got 6 GN Rifle Bits. More beam spam FTW!

You may also refer to my previous review on the Bandai HG 1/144 Cherudim Gundam I did last year.

~MS Specs~

Pilot: Lockon Stratos AKA Lyle Dylandy & Haro

GN-006GNHW/R Cherudim Gundam GNHW/R

Armaments: GN Sniper Rifle II, GN Pistol II (4), GN Shield Bit (9), GN Rifle Bit (6)

Lots of remote weapons there!

*I just noticed I don't put this in for Robot Damashii reviews... maybe I should, later.*

Note 2: This part will only cover the manual scans, runners and building process with some notes while building. Enjoy the manual scans~

Note 3: All photos were taken with a Samsung Champ(ion) phone camera @ 1.3MP since my camera is away for servicing. My old camera is a pain to work with since it has a few aging problems (main reason why I bought the new camera). ^^;

EDIT: Forgot to state some spots I painted.

Part 1: Box

Due to further "issues", it looks like they had to Photoshop more things off the box than last time. I don't really mind but it has made the box more bare... I want more Engrish on the box! You can see the quality of Photoshop is so-so... not bad though!

Part 2: Box Open!

One single plastic bag filled with runners and a dual-language manual as usual. The sticker, somehow, was outside the plastic bag though and the forehead crystal decal was missing (might have dropped it or it was just not there). Wasn't a problem for me though since I only used one sticker in the end (forehead sensor) since I've adapted the "red color" theme for my bootleg Gunpla. It makes things more fun to build actually. ^^

Part 3: Manual Scans

Scanned at 300dpi then downsized by 50% with 70% JPEG compression. Enjoy the slightly better Engrish translation (than before) courtesy of Gao Gao~

Part 4: Runners

Usually the HG runners has a good chance to be "cheap plastic shiny" but Gao Gao made them flat like most of their MG/PG releases which is a good thing. The details seems to be more accurate then before which is also a good thing. I mean, BOTH of the small mouth vents on the face plate are see-able and panel-line-able. I can already feel the upgrade in quality at this point. However, his does not mean that their quality has come close enough to the Bandai original counterpart.

Part 5: Building Process

Part 5.1: Preparations

Before building any bootleg kits, make sure you set in your mind that it isn't going to be a perfect ride through out so make sure your patience at an all time high during the course of building.

You may also need some superglue/cement if anything goes wrong or does not fit since if you have to take some parts apart due to any building mistake, you WILL break the connections. stickers seem to stick fine this time but you may need paint markers or paints if they don't work out. It is better to detail bootlegs with pain than using the not so good looking stickers when building bootlegs. That's what my experience has taught me thus far.

Okay, onwards with the building process~
Decided to paint it red instead of green. this makes it obvious which of my 00 Gunpla is fake or not. I still painted the supposed to be clear blue parts blue since the GN Sniper Rifle ones are already blue. Used the Sangokuden metallic paint markers BTW.

Tip: Shake once to get a clear, sometimes a bit sparkly, paint from the Sangokuden markers.

Part 5.2: Torso

Just a little extra, I painted the parts underneath all the clear parts with silver paint marker. I tried to use that 0.8 tip Artline silver marker but it sort-off dried a bit so I went back to use my Zebra paint marker later on. You may just use the stickers or none at all if you wish if you paint the clear parts.

Everything fits in well and works without any annoying problems. You might need to push the two halves of the torso with more force though.

Note that the backpack can rotate up and down on a ball joint. There's also something you can pull out that is for the Holoscreen gimmick later on (which is overshadowed by the Bits). The hole at the moving part also can be used for the Bits display "base" from the Gadess.

Part 5.3: Head

Be careful that the forehead crystal, like the original, may fallout when you open it. The extra yellow fin at the side may fall off too even though it hasn't for me.

I painted the eyes metallic red using the Sangokuden marker although it isn't so visible through the photos. Red eyes seem to give a "dead" look for Gundams though, something that someone made me realized after painting red eyes for my SD Unicorn.

Part 5.4: GN Sniper Rifle II

I suggest gluing the two halves together and the nozzle as well.

The second handle kinda don't sit in flat enough but that isn't a problem.

Take out, slide in from the bottom and you'll have rapid fire mode which is also overshadowed by the Bits and the more used GN Pistol II.

Lyle, unlike his older brother Neil, prefers a more closer range of battle thus he tends to use the GN Pistol II more.

Part 5.5: Arms

Make sure you cut the clear pieces cleanly or else they won't fit in without a fight.

Up = Before, Down = After

The wrist didn't really move as much as I hope due to a molding defect? I decided to cut the arm part a bit, which resulted in being able to see inside the arms, to increase the articulation a bit. You can cut down the wrist section alternatively.

Comment and ask if you want to know more since I'm not sure I explained this clearly enough. ^^;

The two halves doesn't close in tightly but you ca fix that if you want. The shield bits, surprisingly, fits in very well.

00 Season 2 HGs were known to have some of the best articulation until this day.

GN Shield Bit (7). You can see a bit of molding defects on it although my phone camera doesn't let you see it clearly enough. ^^;

Part 5.6: Legs

*Oops, forgot the PC08 for the feet.*

Like the arms, the two halves doesn't really go in all the way. The shield bits doesn't really fit on the knees that well but they can be put on and won't very easily drop off oddly enough.

If you didn't notice, but I'm sure you did, I painted the rear leg "thrusters" with some metallic red as well. Just an added thing which I dabbed in messily. ^^;

The thin piece behind the feet acts as something to add more on-land grip for the weird shaped legs.

Part 5.7: Waist & GN Drive

You may want to glue the newly added connections onto the GN Drive. If you are thinking of shifting between the normal Cherudim and the GNHW/R Cherudim, you shouldn't.

The front skirts, after I cut it into two halves, have a bit of problem staying in for the right side. Keeps flying off. I had to use blue tack in the end since I sanded it until it was too loose. XP

Note that the GN Drive can move up and down but the connection is a bit on the loose side so maybe you want to reinforce it?

Part 5.8: GN Pistol II (4)

The good thing about these was... there is no problems building or playing with them. Hallelujah!

Allelujah: "Hal, someone called you!"

Hallelujah: "It's time for my screen time again! HAHAHA!"

...or not.

Part 5.9: GN Sniper Rifle Bit (6)

The GN Shield Bits can shoot but these are stronger and meant for attacking anyways. There are many connecting points on these bits. The gray part can turn all around to give the bits even more different angled connectivity. You guys know I have that certain stand now, right? :3

These bits don't really connect that well but they CAN with a little bit of difficulty. Nothing too annoying though.

Part 5.10: Shield Bits Stand

Same as before. You can do lots of things with these parts if your mind is set on it. Unfortunately, creativity is much harder to execute on a bootleg product as I found out during the photo-shoot today (not done yet however). ^^;

Part 6: Preview

It STANDS~!

To be continued...